Lash Extensions

“[Lash extensions] are carefully applied one at a time (typically 80-140 per eye) using a specially-formulated, semi-permanent glue that will not irritate or damage the natural lash,” says Richardson. “The lash is only applied to an existing lash, not to the skin.” While the exact process varies from salon to salon, here’s what you can expect:

• Evaluation: “Prior to application, the technician should go through all the risks and benefits of having eyelash extensions before applying them, and also ask about any conditions you may have that would make eyelash extensions unsuitable for you,” says Richardson. They’ll also ask you to remove your contacts if you wear them.
• Decide on Extension Length and Curl Strength: Your lash artist should start the process by asking you what kind of look you’re going for, whether that be more glamorous or more natural. Based on your desired look, you’ll choose an ideal length and curl strength for the extensions. Keep in mind that your artist may decide to use up to 3-4 different extension lengths, concentrating longer extensions on the outer corners and shorter extensions on the inner eyes.
• Cleansing the Eye Area: Your lash artist will have you lie down and ensure that you are in a comfortable position. Then, they will cleanse the area to remove any makeup, oil, and germs from the area. It’s helpful to your artist if you arrive makeup-free to your appointment.
• Applying the Tape and Eye Gels: Your eyes are closed for the duration of the process, which typically takes 1-2 hours, depending on the number of extensions your lash artist is applying. To prep for the actual application, you lash artist will apply an under-eye gel to your lower lash line to keep your lower lashes out of the way and provide a contrasted background to work against (it’s easier to see your lashes against a crisp white background). Then, the eye gels will be secured with medical-grade tape on both sides of the eye (this tape doesn’t touch your lashes, and it doesn’t hurt once it’s removed later).
• Application: Using tweezers, your lash artist will dip the end of each extension in the lash glue and then apply it to your individual lash. In most cases, one eyelash extension is applied per natural lash, however, more voluminous looks can require multiple extensions per individual natural lash. The application isn’t painful, although you may feel anxious having tweezers operate so close to your eyes while they’re closed.
• Drying: The lash glue dries very quickly, but your lash artist will likely have you sit for around 10 minutes once all of the extensions have been applied. Some lash artists like to point a small, handheld fan at your extensions to speed up the drying time, while others prefer to let the glue air dry. During this stage, your eyes are still closed.
• Removing the Tape and Gels: Once your lashes are completely dry, your lash artist will remove the under-eye gels and tape (this doesn’t hurt at all, but let your lash professional know if you tend to experience sensitivity in this area so they can practice extra caution). Once removed, your lash artist will likely brush through the lashes with a spooly, then you’ll be asked to slowly blink your eyes open. Et voila!

One of the scariest things about eyelash extensions is that the process isn’t regulated in some states, as is the case in Alabama, Maryland, Connecticut, Delaware, Idaho, and Wisconsin.2 A shocking number of states only require a cosmetology license in order to perform the service, and while these professionals are extremely skilled in their respective areas of focus (hair coloring, hair styling, hair cutting, makeup, and nails), they aren’t trained specifically to work on the eye area, which is extremely sensitive and delicate.

This is where things get a bit hairy. “Lash extensions alone will not ruin your lashes,” says Richardson. “Damage to the natural lashes is the result of improper application, or the stylist not selecting the correct type of lash for an existing natural lash. There are a few main factors that contribute to this problem: Applying extensions that are too heavy for the natural lash will result in premature shedding. Rubbing your eyes will also result in immediate breakage.”

As with the hair on your head, eyelashes follow a natural cycle of shedding and regrowth. All of your lashes are at a different stage at any point in time, which means that some of your lashes are getting ready to fall out while others are experiencing a period growth (this is true if you have eyelash extensions or not). Since an individual extension is applied to an individual lash, that extension will fall out on its own when the eyelash sheds from the lash line. If you aren’t exacerbating this shedding process by rubbing your eyes, applying mascara, or compromising the glue with oily eye products, your lash extensions should last up to a month before you need a “refill” appointment.